Breaking Down The 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine (2024)

She continues to highlight Korea's strong social connectivity online, noting platforms like Cyworld preceding Facebook and the country's exceptionally fast internet connections. This connectivity fosters a massive online community where skincare information is constantly shared. Yoon mentions Hwahwae, an app with millions of subscribers reviewing skincare formulas and tracking ingredient safety and profiles.

"For brands to excel and stand out among demanding and highly discerning Korean consumers, they must exceed expectations in efficacy, ease of use, delightfulness, and value," says Yoon. This intense competition drives continuous innovation in the industry.

Vogue’s top picks

• Best moisturiser: Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Cooling Gel Moisturiser For Redness, £38
• Best mask: Laneige Water Sleeping Mask, £26
• Best treatment: SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Asiatica Ampoule, £13 £12
• Best toner: Innisfree Green Tea Enzyme PHA Toner, £28
• Best essence: Mixsoon Bean Essence, £27 £20
• Best cleansing Oil: Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Oil, £18
• Best exfoliator: Mediheal Photo-Enzyme Peeling Pad, £24 £20

Step 1: Oil-based or balm cleanser

According to celebrity aesthetician Alicia Yoon, the first step in any 10-step Korean skincare routine is an oil cleanser. Oil-based impurities like excess sebum, makeup, and SPF are best removed with oil because like attracts like, a principle familiar to those who can remember their high school science class.

Step 2: Water-based cleanser

The second step is, you guessed it, another cleanser! Double-cleansing is essential in K-beauty routines, though its since been adopted in skincare routines all over, including Victoria Beckham’s. By following up with a water-based cleanser, you can properly remove water-based impurities like dirt, sweat, and grime. Yoon suggests opting for a low pH, sulfate-free, calming cleanser to give skin a gentle kickstart or choosing a treatment cleanser suited to your skin concern. However, if you have acne, she suggests using an acne-specific cleanser to deep cleanse down to the pores. Aesthetician Mandy Epley recommends this step for the evening only, not as part of your morning routine.

Step 3: Exfoliator

Depending on your skin type and exfoliator, this might be a daily or weekly step – make sure to read the instructions on the label. Yoon explains that on the days you’re exfoliating, you should do so after cleansing.

Step 4: Toner

Next come the toners. While toners may have a negative connotation in your mind, nowadays there are many that aren’t harsh, stripping, or astringent, especially if you choose a K-beauty option. “Korean toners are incredibly hydrating, and their main job is to focus on balancing the skin, including the skin’s pH level,” says Yoon.

Step 5: Essence

Toners and essences may offer similar benefits, but they’re not exactly interchangeable. Yoon explains that the main difference lies in their primary functions: a toner helps balance the skin, while an essence floods it with hydration. If your toner is deeply hydrating, it can double as an essence. Depending on the essence, they may also contain more concentrated ingredients and benefits compared to toners. “Think of essences as hydrating elixirs that can also deliver lightweight treatment benefits,” says Yoon.

Step 6: Prescription topicals

“If you are using any prescription topicals, you would typically apply them directly onto dry skin once everything is patted in, either right after cleansing or right after your toner and essence,” explains Yoon. Every prescription has its nuances, so check in with your doctor on where exactly this would fit into your routine.

Step 7: Treatments

The next step is your treatments: serums and ampoules. “Depending on the formula, the order might differ, but the general rule of thumb is light to heavy in texture to optimise absorbency,” says Yoon. You’ll want to choose a serum that either hydrates, brightens, firms, and/or calms to achieve luminous, smooth, clear skin. Ensure it can be easily paired with other treatments without concern.

Step 8: Eye cream

Don’t forget eye creams! Yoon advises choosing one that suits your eye area and addresses specific concerns you’re targeting. The eye area is sensitive and prone to milia, so always make sure to patch test. “Remember to dab on the product rather than tugging and pulling,” she adds.

Step 9: Moisturiser

It’d be a crime to skip moisturiser, which is why this step comes last to seal it all in. According to Yoon, Korean skincare offers incredible textures and exceeds expectations with sensorial experiences. This is particularly true for Korean moisturisers, as the final step not only provides skincare benefits, but also significantly affects how your skin looks and feels after application.

Step 10 PM: Masks

This is a bonus step for nights when you have extra time or want to treat yourself. Masks are an incredibly diverse and fun category in Korean skincare. “Depending on the mask, its application might vary, but typically, they are used after cleansing and toning. What comes next is up to you: some prefer to complete their entire skincare routine after masking, while others may simply want to lock in the benefits with a moisturiser,” says Yoon. Her motto: Have fun with your skincare, pay attention to your skin, and see what it needs.

Step 10 AM: SPF

And in the mornings, the final step is SPF, rain or shine. “With the diverse and modern sun filters that can be used, Korean sunscreens are typically weightless, invisible, and feel more like a light moisturiser or soothing serum than the sunscreens we might be familiar with stateside,” says Yoon.

Meet the Experts

• Alicia Yoon is a celebrity aesthetician and founder of Peach & Lily.
• Mandy Epley is a master aesthetician at Mandy Epley Skin Studio
• Natalia Barzotti is a licensed aesthetician and lead medical aesthetician for Dr. John Laura in Newport Beach, California.